Static Ports Install
I am using the static ports supplied with the kit, which are the stick-on variety with barbed fittings. They just need a small hole drilled through the skin, and then they are bonded onto the skin with glue. I will probably use Loctite 422 for the adhesive, since I already some. The kit includes two static ports and a y-fitting. The manual does’t include pictures of how to install the static ports and tubes. I reviewed several other build logs, but most other Sling builders used a different style of static port and tubing, so I had to figure this out for myself. Craig’s build log had a post about updated advice from TAF on where to install the static port, so I followed that information to locate the holes to drill.
I had to use some creativity with how to route and secure the tubing. I think it came out pretty OK. I made sure to incorporate raised loops to prevent moisture from pooling inside the tubes. I used a combination of stand-offs and carefully-placed zip tie loops to ensure the tubing stays in place.
To install the tubing onto the barbed fittings, I used a heat gun to soften the tubing, and misted a little bit of water onto the fitting help it slide on. I had no trouble getting the fittings on. I put some zip-ties on the ends of the tubing on the y-fitting, to be sure they do not slide off. Zip ties were not necessary for the static port barbs; they were pretty difficult to put on even with heat and water. These lines are not pressurized at all, but the installation is pretty robust — I bet this system could easily withstand 20 PSI without leaking!
I have installed my static ports the same as yours but got thinking about the turbulence caused by the raised surface area. So I contacted TAF and they said that the static port are installed from the inside with the smaller raised area protruding thru the skin.